August 2019 Tour - Smutwood Peak
Smutwood Peak Sunrise Hike - August 2019
Sunrise on Smutwood Peak, overlooking Mt. Birdwood
Our August long photography tour started off with a bang. We picked an extremely challenging hike for our first day out, but the group was feeling energetic and up for a challenge. I wouldn’t have normally suggested a 20km hike, but with one of the most impressive and dramatic views in the Canadian Rockies on offer, they didn’t need any convincing.
To get the best light for photography, photographers typically opt to shoot sunrise or sunset. As we wanted to pack our days with adventures, we opted to try and hit the peak at sunrise; a staggeringly early time of 6am. To get to the peak at 6am, it would mean a 12am (yes, midnight) wake up, hitting the trail at 2am, and walking through the dark until the sun came up.
A daunting thought perhaps, especially as we were traipsing through grizzly country, but the group was enthusiastic, loud and optimistic, so we set off with confidence.
When we arrived at the trailhead it was raining but still mild, and pitch black. We each took out our bear spray, flicked on on our headlamps and GPS, and set off.
Hiking to Smutwood in the Dark
The first part of the trail was flat but muddy, and we made quick progress along the first 4km. There were a few points where the trail opened out into a wide meadow, where tall grass extended off into the darkness. We felt like there might be eyes watching us, so calls of “HEY BEAR!” rang out continuously into the darkness. Bears are often on the trails in Banff, and the key to a safe outing is letting your presence be known and not catching any bears unawares. Our loud cries echoed across the meadow, and we wondered what the views would be like when the sun eventually rose. Even though our eyes strained, the moonless night meant it would remain a mystery until the way back.
Great GPS and hiking apps
About halfway through the hike, the trail started to turn sharply upwards, and we trusted that our GPS was taking us in the right direction. We used a combination of the “Topo Canada” app, and the Earthmate Outdoors app that comes with a Garmin GPS to make sure we were following the right trail.
Gradually the trail worked its way higher and higher, and soon we hit a few snow patches left over from the previous winter. We stopped for a quick snack, and looked upwards to see the faint outline of the ridge ahead of us. We still had an hour until sunrise, and figured we could easily make it to the summit before first light.
We pressed on, and eventually passed the treeline and reached the ridge. The grass turned into scree, and once or twice we used our hands to propel ourselves forwards. The sky was starting to brighten as we entered blue hour, and started to grasp the magnitude of the hike we’d just walked. We were glad to have walked it in the dark, as looking back down seemed far more daunting than we’d realised as we hiked it.
Hiking the Smutwood Peak Ridge
We walked the final part of the ridge and looked for the perfect view of the towering Mt. Birdwood. It’s an iconic, jagged peak that dominates the mountain skyline, and seeing it for sunrise was the real reason we dragged ourselves out of bed at such an ungodly hour.
Now with the perfect vantage point, our group dropped its bags, threw on some extra layers and set up its tripods along the ridge. We boiled some coffee as we waited for those first golden rays to come up through the valley.
Waiting for sunrise
The rain during the night had blown through and now we had a thin layer of clouds that had the potential to bring colour and depth to our photos. We warmed our hands with a hot cup of coffee, ate some snacks and started firing our first shots.
Possibly the best view in Kananskis and Banff
The group was giddy with excitement as the first rays of warm light bathed the valley and lit up Mt. Birdwood. All thoughts of sore legs and cold hands melted away. It was truly breathtaking, and after many fireside chats about the value of golden hour light, the group finally could see the effect with their own eyes. Smutwood Peak is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful hikes in the Banff/Kananaskis area, and was the perfect first hike for our photography tour.
What was even better? We had the entire peak to ourselves. There aren’t many people willing to get up and hike 10km in the dark through bear country, but our group’s bravery paid off and we were treated to one of the most breathtaking views any of us had ever seen.
Once we’d warmed up and had our fill of photos, it was time to turn back and head back into town for lunch. We had 10km left to go, and there were still a couple of surprises left in store.
Meeting a Couple of Grizzlies
As we descended the ridge, we saw faint movement in the stream below. It didn’t take long to realise it was an enormous grizzly having a morning bath! He splashed around cheerfully before standing up and bolting across the meadow below. It was hard to fathom the speed he raced across the mountain, and it made us glad we were up on the opposite ridge, far above him.
As if that wasn’t enough, an hour later, we came across another grizzly on the trail. This time we saw him from a hundred metres away and yelled “hey bear” at the top of our lungs. He plodded away without so much as a backward glance.
Bear safety is important in the mountains, and carrying bear spray is critical, however there is a lot more fear of bears than I believe is necessary.
Should we be scared of bears?
I’ve come across bears on trails on several occasions, and thanks to our level of noise, they’ve always walked away without any fuss. We’re just not in their food chain, and so long as you don’t catch them by surprise, my experience tells me that these intelligent creatures just aren’t as interested in us as we like to think they are. By all accounts, the best defence is to have a large group of at least 4 people, stay calm and be extremely loud along the trail.
The rest of the trail was uneventful, and we spent the next two hours trudging back to the car, ready for our next meal. In the end, we decided to drop in to the Summit Cafe in Canmore. Their food is fantastic, and the Huevos Rancheros will knock your socks off.
All in all, an incredible first outing for the group. Here are a few more photos!
If you’re interested in booking onto one of our 2020 tours, you can find out more here!